Riots

A friend of mine, and follower of this blog, mentioned she had looked to it to check for my thoughts on the riots that began last Saturday (12/6).  Due to fortunate, or unfortunate depending on how you look at it, timing I was busy flying to the U.S. for the holidays when this mess started.

At first I wasn't too phased (aside from the fact that the young boy died, obviously).  Youths being unruly,  Molotov cocktails and localized unrest are pretty standard.  Pictures of police in riot garb are not new to me, and I've only been in Athens for 15 months.  This picture here (thanks to Getty Images) is very similar to sights I've seen on the news before.  When larger demonstrations are planned, Athens gets ready.  Of course, this was a bit different - anger at the death of Alexandros Grigoropoulos.

When it kept going on the next day, and the day after, I knew it wasn't about Alexandros anymore.  Often, demonstrations are hijacked by anarchists to make trouble for their own causes.  The government isn't very popular at all, with scandals and corruption popping up all the time.  The Greek Orthodox church has recently been a subject of scandal as well (and they wield FAR to much power/influence in Greece), so there aren't really many spots of brightness when it comes to those in power in the country.  There's a lot to be upset about and Alexandros' death became the matchstick to light the fire of these protests/riots.

There are calls for the government to step down, or at the very least to have elections (which aren't due until 2011).  The opposition party (the only real challengers to those in charge right now, there are quite a few parties) really isn't any different. This became more obvious to me by the fact that I (however remotely) have noticed no attempts by them to quell this situation, but have fed it more by not supporting the current governments attempts.  I could be very wrong...

Generally this makes me sad for the Greeks.  Both that there is the need to voice such strong issues with the way things are, as well as how they do it.  Destroying local businesses just hurts their fellow Greeks.  A common response to this kind of behavior is "well, this is Greece".  I feel it is an often used copout for Greek behaviors that are recognized as being bad but no one thinks will ever change.

I am truly sorry I am missing this.  Not like I would have gone downtown to be a part of this (capitalist countries are not a favorite of most of these anarchists and as an American it's best to play it safe and stay away), but I could have gotten a better look at how it plays out with the Greeks both in the news and on the streets.  

No one I know has been in any danger or even been near the action - so had I been there I would be as safe as I am now.  I do appreciate those of you who did drop an email to check on me!

TV time

There's a lot of good to be said for Greek TV - although most of it is due to programming in English.  Of course, my view is slightly biased because at best I can only understand their dramas and not very well at that.  It's surprising how much time one can spend watching english shows - not all good mind you - but your standards lower a bit when that's all you can understand.  I find myself watching shows that I would definitely change the channel on if I were in the states.

First, though, I'd like to start with what just gets on my nerves.  News programs.  The picture above is of a typical program where they have up to 5 different windows on the screen.  More often than not, most of these people are arguing (thereby making it more difficult for me to understand).  Sometimes 3 of the 5 people in the windows are in the same studio, but just get individual cameras on them.  It can be a bit confusing.  I really hate nothing more than a bunch of loud people arguing in my living room, in a language I don't fully understand.  It's very Greek.

On to what you can find in English.  

-- CNN is my main news source (aside from online).  At times I can get Euronews or Al Jazeera, but that's through our cable box which is testy and takes time to get booted up, so I usually don't bother.

-- Without fail there is a movie or two every night, usually good ones but sometimes there is a dearth of Jean-Claude Van Damme or Steven Segal.  Last night we watched "Spy Game" with Robert Redfort and Brad Pitt.  On Sunday they played "Alexander".  One can catch movies that were in the theaters much more quickly than they are put on air in the States.

-- You can usually catch "The Bold and the Beautiful" and sometimes "Days of Our Lives", but they constantly change the programming so you don't know what time or channel it will be on from month to month.  The episodes seem to be from about 4 years ago.

--- Lots of American series' and some British ones as well.  We got caught up in "NCIS" this summer, some others are "CSI:New York", "Friends", "Gossip Girl" and "Chuck" (what are those anyway?), "E.R." and many more.  My sanity saver during the summer was daily doses of "Frasier" and "Everybody Loves Raymond".  As with nearly every country on earth, we also have "Oprah" but it's dubbed.  It's very weird to watch Oprah and hear a Greek voice.  Just doesn't compute.

---  I almost forgot - they even carry the Bob Ross shows (you know, the painter with the big white man's afro).  Dubbed, sadly.  It's just not the same without his calm voice walking us through the canvas creations.

--- One of the state channels seems to have purchased the licensing for every non-animated Disney produced during the 60's and 70's.  They have that very tell-tale coloring and bouncy positive feeling to them.  Well known ones are the Herbie Love Bug films and just about anything with Hayley Mills.  Today I have caught The One and Only, Genuine, Original Family Band (1968) starring Leslie Ann Warren, with a great dancing scene by Kurt Russell (at ~16 years old) that made me burst out laughing it was just so goofy.  Seeing him at that age was funny enough.  Even Goldie Hawn has a part in it - perhaps that is how they met?

I must tear myself away from this latest Disney offering, and the computer, and get ready for class.  Maybe some time soon I can give a more even review of the Greek shows if I work hard enough in class...

Gas and strikes

This morning I was catching a couple minutes of TV while eating breakfast and before heading out to take care of some business.  I saw a Greek news piece showing lots of traffic on a particular street, with a gas station near the shot.  Trying to read the news line at the bottom of the screen, I couldn't make out what the subject was.  

I left the house, with plans to gas up at the cheaper of the two gas stations on the way to my destination.  As I was turning onto the main thoroughfare where those stations are located, I saw the traffic backed up to the lights I was waiting at!  Mind you, I am not often out of the house at 7:30am these days, but I didn't think this was morning rush hour traffic.  Turns out, cars were in line at the station 1.5 blocks down the road.  Of course, this was a BP and they always have higher prices, and the station I wanted to stop at, further down the road, wasn't open.  I had assumed as much, seeing the line for this one.

Not having clarity on the gas situation, other than some kind of strike was going on, I decided that I'd need to go wait in that line before I went home.  (I felt it was too early to call anyone who might have more detailed information and hubby was unavailable.)  We were pretty much on "E" and there were some places we need to go in the next few days.  Not knowing if this was a 24 hour strike (as many strikes are here), or if it could go on indefinitely like the last time this happened, I figured I best get some fuel.

I probably managed to piss off some people already in line, since it extended way beyond the intersection I entered it at.  I realized that a bit late and was low enough on gas that I wasn't going to try to correct my mistake.  No honking or yelling in my general directions, so hopefully no harm no foul.

While in line, I was trying to decide whether to fill up, or get 20 Euros of gas, just to get by for a little while.  That decision was taken out of my hands, I learned as I approached the pumps.  We were limited to a 20 Euro purchase.  Probably best, since this station is more expensive anyway.  So after about a 20 minute wait, I got ~4.5 gallons of gas for a little under $30.  Wow, that's the first time I've really made that conversion (gas in liters to gallons and dollars).  That's ~$6.50 gallon.  No complaining from you guys on gas prices!!!  Sure, we always have someone doing the filling up for us (no self serve here), and if he's in a good mood he cleans your windows, but that's just not worth the price difference!

My biggest weakness in having a hard time understanding the news is knowing when strikes are coming.  I'm usually lucky and stumble upon the information in a timely manner, except for the one time I walked the whole 25 minutes to the Metro, only to find the strike hours started about 5-10 minutes before I got there.  Nice.

We have all sorts of strikes here, and I had kind of forgotten about them as they don't really happen during the summer.  But I guess we have returned to strike season.  Time to pay more attention to the news.

UPDATE - just spoke with hubby and it turns out this is a Customs strike (I believe at the Port of Pireaus).  They aren't allowing in fuel and possibly other things.  I still don't know what determines which gas stations would be open for business today, but am doubly happy that I stopped to get my share!

Parking Ticket - Take 2

I am more than a little upset right now.  Like parking doesn't suck in Athens as it is, but these assholes have to make things worse.

Let's see if I can give a bit of background, and then try to start at the beginning...

It's my understanding that when (in the 60's?) they started building apartments buildings all over the place, they were supposed to leave the first floor for parking.  That just didn't happen.  Instead, the first floor is usually leased out for businesses, or in less business-y areas the first floor is just empty space - used simply for the entrance to a building.  The only time we drive downtown (where it can be the worst) is to visit my mother-in-law.

Because of the lack of parking for the ~5 million people in the area, parking rules tend to be kind of lax.  This benefits those parking, but pedestrians are a second thought at best.  Double parking and parking on the sidewalks is common practice.  Although excited to have a reason to push a stroller around town, I know it will be a pain in the ass to navigate the streets.  Sidewalks are not stroller friendly, hell - they aren't even people friendly many times.  As noted in a previous post, there are some areas you don't mess with - such as the entrance/exit to parking areas for homes/apartments/etc.  Ok, understood.

What happened, you ask?  Obviously this story ends with us getting a ticket, but let me take you through it.  All the levels of insanity of it.

We went to The Mall to see Wall-E (it just opened here).   Yes, The Mall.  As it is the only mall in Athens, it can rightfully hold that name.  With the exception of one time, we only really go there to see movies, and only if they aren't playing at the other cinema we frequent.  The other visit will an ill-fated, last minute idea of mine to try to buy a new dress to get married in at City Hall the next day.  The only thing I came away with was further proof that my then husband-to-be is awesome.  Everyone, he patiently followed me into every store in that 3 level mall that I thought might remotely have something I could try on.  Never once complaining or seeming bored or put out.  Boy do I love that guy!

Back to the story.  Mall parking is available, but expensive and one (with determination and willingness to walk a bit) can usually find street parking in the area.  When we can, we take the motorcycle as that makes parking much easier.  Having driven the car this time, we were doing some searching.  Finally, we find a spot and joined the other cars parked on the short bridge over the freeway.  No surprise to you, dear readers, there was a ticket upon our return (same with the other cars).  Evidently, you aren't supposed to park on a bridge.  

There are a few irksome details to this.

#1  With the crazy parking that happens everywhere else in this city, this is the last place I would have figured it to be enforced.  I so often see sidewalks blocked and cars sometimes trapped behind others.  No ticketing there.  We weren't blocking anything or anyone.  It wasn't even residential.  Here on the bridge, there was more than ample sidewalk space on both sides of the road, plenty of room for two way traffic (which is also uncommon), and no visible No Parking signs.

#2 The one No Parking sign we could find (from the direction we approached the bridge) did not make it evident it was for the bridge, but seemed more to indicate the road the bridge intersects with.

As I brought up all of these items with Vasilis, he said it's simple.  The owners of the mall parking area complain to the local police that not enough people are using their parking and utilizing city streets instead.  The police being a different animal here, they respond to such heavy handed complaints (I'm sure there's some power connection involved) and start ticketing where it makes the least sense in all of Athens.

So not only do they not bother elsewhere, where pedestrian and vehicle traffic flow could be positively affected, but they spend their time based on the indignant calls of someone who isn't making as much money as he'd like.  As my husband puts it, "assholes".  I tend to agree.

Irksome detail #3.  To make matters worse, I went to pay said ticket today.  80 Euros, but we can pay 1/2  if paid within 10 days of ticketing.  Sadly, the employee at the Post Office noticed something that kept me from closing this issue today.  Lucky us, the sh*thead who issued the ticket dated it Aug 19 and not Sept 19.  So tomorrow I have to go to the police station for that area and wrangle with them a bit.  What fun.  

UPDATE   - I went to the police station this morning to straighten this out and hopefully pay only the 40 Euros.  After filling in a bit of paperwork, and waiting a while, they told me "it's on us, it was our mistake".  We don't have to pay at all now!  Maybe I like the sh*thead after all...

At the movies

We've been to the movies quite a number of times in the year I've been here, but other than a couple major things I hadn't really taken notice of the differences from the U.S. cinema experience.

Prices - a bit more expensive.  It was 8.50 Euro which is ~$12.50 at the current exchange rate.  Take into account typical Greek salaries and it's quite a bit more expensive.

Seating - you are actually assigned seats, which I consider a bonus.  If you catch a flick at the Mall, you can buy your tickets early getting good seats, go Mall browse, and then come back at the last minute.  No worrying about long lines for new showings.

Concessions - Similar, but different.  About the same price.  We bought the largest popcorn and a soda (one size only - equates to about a medium) and it was only 4.90 Euro (~$7).  What they offer:  nachos (believe it or not), aforementioned popcorn and sodas, a variety of non-alcoholic drinks, candy from a self serve dispenser (like nuts, M&M's and other small piece candies), and alcohol.  I noticed one or two beer brands and Bacardi Breezers on offer the other night.  (Now we know where Breezers go to die).

Restrooms - At the cinema we went to the other evening, as best I could tell they had only one woman's bathroom for 10 theaters.  And it could hold only 1 person.  There weren't multiple stalls.

Getting into the theater - there is a fairly large lobby with more seating than you'd find in a typical lobby in the U.S.  Movies are announced (maybe 10 minutes prior to start) and at that point you can go in.  If you try to enter prior to that, the ticket taker will turn you back.  I don't like that as much, because it's hard for me to understand the announcements.  And 9 times out of 10, I don't remember what the movie is called in Greek.  (Rarely are the titles a direct translation).

Ushers - there are even kindly employees ready to help you find your seats if you need it.  They might also serve to detract from those who think they'll see a 2nd movie after their is over. ;)

Exiting - Sometimes, depending upon the theater, you actually have to exit down at the bottom of the theater, by the screen.  Flow management, I guess.  You then find yourself in a series of depressing hallways before you make it back out to the world.

Animated movies - I have to be careful which I buy tickets for when seeing one of these.  They will usually offer two viewings, one with Greek dubbing and the other with just subtitles. Even if I could understand the dubbed version, I don't think I'd want to see Kung Fu Panda without Jack Black's voice.

Then there are the Summer Cinemas, soon to close for the season.  These I really like.  It's like a drive in, but no cars and far less groping.  These are the perfect outdoor theaters for the city.  They are wonderful little openings in the city - usually a garden setting that often has fragrant flowers coming out of the vines covering the walls.  No assigned seating there - but not a big concern for me.  Atypically, I sit up towards the front at these places. The sound systems are far from stellar and, unlike the rest of the audience, I can rarely rely on the subtitles to make up for what I didn't catch in the dialog.  Only drawback is that you can smoke here, and the chairs aren't terribly comfortable.  Otherwise, a great way to spend a warm summer evening!

Queuing - a flash of civility

I was witness to a moment of brightness, in the otherwise despairing world of queuing in Greece, this morning.  First, I will describe the world.

Queuing, or lining up, for many things here, is an art in not caring about who really was there first and forfeiting your personal space.  Far from what I am used to in the U.S. (and even further from what you may experience in Britain), there are very few organized lines here.  For example:

 

The Metro.  People start moving towards the edge of the platform as the train approaches.  Unlike BART (SF's version of the Metro) there is no indication of where the doors will be when the train stops.  So, you get up to the edge and hope for the best - that the doors will be right in front of you.  If they are not, you start pushing your way towards them.   Once the train stops everyone waiting to board is packed in front of the doors (during the busy times of course).  People need to exit the train, you say?  Who cares about them?!  I need to get in first so I can have the best chance at a seat or at least a decent place to stand.

Elevators.  Ok, we know where the doors will open in this circumstance, so slightly less pushing.  Still don't give a rats ass about those who have to get off, although ultimately a small area is made to let them pass.  Can't get on otherwise...  Using crutches, in a wheelchair, or otherwise obviously disabled?  Good luck anyone making sure you get on.  You could be the first person waiting in front of a back of elevators (at my university for example) and still not make it on to the next available lift.  People watch the floor indicator, adjusting position from door to door as necessary based on which will most likely arrive next.  I usually walk the 140 steps up to the 6th floor to avoid this nonsense.

Customer service windows.  When you are at a window for service that doesn't require you to take a number, get ready to disregard all that you have been taught.  I can't say whether I am proud or saddened by the fact that, given the right mood, I can work my way through a crowd (even if I am the last one there) just to get my business done.  It's particularly bad at the copy center at the University.  

Busses.  Similar to elevators, they don't really care about who was there first.  Again, typically bad at the University, which is the beginning of the line and usually many students waiting.  Don't get the wrong impression - you might think it's just students who act like this.  Nope.

Fortunately the post office and banks utilize the "take a number" machines.  Banks get quite busy here as people deal mostly in cash - at Vasilis' bank I've never seen less than 10 people waiting.  Good news is that chairs are provided.  Similarly the post offices are quite busy, that's where we pay all of our bills in addition to regular PO duties that you would recognize, and they've got chairs as well.  Of course, even requiring a number doesn't stop the random person from cutting in on one's time and asking a question - sometimes resulting in them getting taken care of immediately and foregoing the waiting.  I wish I knew what they were asking about so could better ascertain whether I would consider it a "cutable" situation.   

So this moment of brightness I was referring to at the beginning.  I arrived at the post office today and the number machine was being worked on.  There were about 5 people already in there and I had followed in a Philippina nanny and her cute little blond charge in a stroller.  Taking a moment to figure out what the replacement system, knowing who came before you, I sat down.  This thankfully allowed us to avoid lining up or crowding the two windows.

Eventually the gentleman fixed the machine and began distributing numbers to those who had initially been waiting - all done in a well mannered fashion.  Knowing that myself and the nanny were next, I approached the machine.  He then stopped giving them out, leaving the rest of us to fend for ourselves in deciphering the order of who's next.  Fortunately, I got to it first, took a number for the nanny (she obviously wasn't going to jump in for herself) and then one for me.  Whew - all set now.

So, not only had everyone handled themselves civilly in a situation that I've seen bring on heated exchanges, then something else happened.  A older, quite crippled man shuffled in, his back at nearly a 90 degree angle with the floor.  He didn't take a number, but slowly made his way to the windows, obviously expecting to immediately advance to the front of the order.  I wasn't sure how this was going to play out.  I was certainly prepared to let him go before me, and guessed the nanny, who was up next, would do the same.  As the next window opened, someone else pointed out to the employee that he was next (wasn't that easy to see him) and he got his turn.  I was happy to see that everyone treated him with respect.   I hadn't necessarily thought they wouldn't, but I haven't ceased being surprised by people here.

Of course, to wrap this whole post office experience up, as I was approaching the door to leave, and older gentleman was coming in.  Rather than holding the door for me, he was actually closing it behind him as I tried to walk through.  Ah, yes - here is the behavior I recognize!

My experience with the police

I was out for a walk this morning, and passed my local police station here in Vrilissia. Having been in it (story to follow) I realized I have never been in a U.S. police station. Wow, the things I am achieving here in Greece. Check that one off the list!

So, the story. It starts out as a day out with some friends - we were all to meet downtown to do a bit of shopping and lunch. These friends are fellow wives of Greeks, who are also unemployed and relatively friendless here in Greece. So shopping, lunch or the beach become our major pastimes.

Anyway, back to the story. I was driving around the neighborhood near the metro station, looking for a place to park, and running late. I turned a corner in my continued search and noticed a spot in my rear view mirror. Those of you who have driven with me might recall that I have decent parking karma. Once again, I thought, ooh! lucky me! I promptly backed into the spot, hopped out of the car, and headed for the metro.

After the day with the girls was over, and I was leaving the metro, Vasilis called me to see where I was. Being on the street where I parked the car, my response was "... should be home in a few minutes." I kept walking down the street, and walking, and starting to worry. I knew I had parked it at that corner - right there! My car had been stolen! Nope. I took a closer look. The spot was the main entry/exit of the parking for an apartment building. I was smack dab in front of it. Yep, there it was - the no parking sign on the gate (much like the one pictured above). Lovely. I had been towed.

Phone call to hubby. "Honey, I think I fucked up." That's exactly what he wants to hear having just settled in for a nap on a hot afternoon. Fortunately, my wonderful supporting husband picked me up and we went to the police station. They were able to tell us who to contact about getting the car back, but we would have to visit still another police station to pay the ticket. Strangely, police from a neighboring town handled the situation, even though our police station was only 1km away.

Next stop, finding and meeting the towing guy to get our car. It was a bit of a ways away, but at least we were able to do it that evening. 96 Euros later (~$150) we had the car. Paying the ticket was left for me to do the next day - which would also get us our license plates back.  Note to U.S. law enforcement: there's a sure fire way to make sure someone pays their tickets!

I went there the next day, but the guy who handles tickets wasn't there, so I would have to come back Monday.  Ok fine - typical Greece there.  I returned on Monday, parking several blocks away since I was driving without plates I figured I shouldn't be parking in front of the station! They told me I first needed to pay the ticket at the post office (you can pay for just about everything there) but I wouldn't get the plates back for 10 days.  I asked them if my husband is penalized for my bad parking too?  Couldn't I get the plates back sooner?  I was shuttled to the Captain (thank god, the conversation could finally switch to English at this point).  I explained what happened and that I wanted my husband to be able to drive the car.  After he apologized for the inconvenience (what, he parked the car in a tow away zone?) he instructed me to pay the ticket (40 euros, but reduced to 20 if you pay within 10 days of the ticketing date) and bring hubby in to fill out a form and show his ID and registration since he is the owner of the car.  Thank goodness they didn't ask to see my drivers license.  I have read that a valid US license is sufficient here but I wasn't ready to definitively find out whether that's true.

So, we got it all sorted the next morning - requiring me to inconvenience hubby once again by being late for work.  Three days of feeling like an asshole finally over. [Note: this feeling was completely self-imposed.  Never a bad comment from Vasilis.  How lucky am I?]

A couple things struck me during all of this - one which not really a surprise but now firsthand knowledge for me.  Laws in Greece are really just suggestions.  The law says that they must keep the plates for 10 days, but there's ways around that.  We were also supposed to pay the ticket, but the officer who processed us said we hadn't really needed to (despite being so instructed by his Captain).  Evidently, we could have gotten away without doing that either.  Hell, I didn't really think there were any rules around parking until this happened!  The biggest thing though, was how darned friendly and helpful they were at the police station.  Any time state employed people are friendly here, I am quite surprised.  And they were so helpful to me, just some idiot who parked in the wrong spot.

Olympics - as viewed from their birthplace

What a great change of pace it has been to watch the Olympics outside of NBC's reach!  As you might guess, given a moment to think about it, the Olympics (or should I be saying "these Olympics?  - how annoying is that..) are a big deal here in Greece.  TV coverage is more than I could have imagined.  There are 4 government stations and a Cyprus channel that carry the games, so there are many options for what you can watch at any given time.  I have been able to watch sports I didn't even know existed in the Olympics and others I don't remember ever watching more than  a highlight of in the States.  I haven't spent a lot of time watching prior to this morning, but here's some of the sports that have been broadcast in full (as opposed to highlights):

Water Polo

Volleyball - beach and regular

Air Rifle

Boxing

Women's soccer

Canoe/Kayak

Judo

Handball

Distance sidewalk spitting (oh right, they have asked the Chinese citizens to hold off on that till everyone goes back home...)

And those are just the ones I find surprising to see so much of (I am already tired of Beach Volleyball and Water Polo).  

Aside from how much is shown, there are some other benefits as well.

Commentators - aside from the opening ceremonies, there is only one commentator per sport, so no lame banter and silly discussion.  Granted I can't understand everything they are saying...

Opening Ceremonies - 4 hours of uninterrupted, LIVE coverage.  Awesome.  Sure, we only have a 5 hour time difference with Beijing, but there were no concerns about Prime Time showing here!

NBC's Olympics theme - I'll admit I missed it at first, but then was reminded of how much one actually does hear it when watching in the US.  I have it bookmarked on my computer, so can call it up when I am feeling the urge.

Competition only - so far I have seen no interviews with athletes, or coverage of their small town life and how hard they worked to get to Beijing.  Not that I am knocking the reality of their hard work by any means, I just remember being very tired of the touchy feely pieces NBC's schlocks together every 2 years.

I have run into one dilemma though, Greece and the US are playing each other in basketball as I type.  Who do I root for?  Or do I just happily watch and come out on top regardless of who wins?   I think the easy answer is change the channel and go back to swimming.  I'm not a big enough b-ball fan to care.  

I'll admit to a small bit of confusion while watching this game though.  There's a black player on the Greece team (who's incidentally the size of a small linebacker).   Of course, I know these things are possible - one must simply prove sufficient connection to the country they are competing for (which varies from country to country).  I'd say this basketball player has got that locked, just look at his name, Sophocles Schortsanitis.  Looking no more (typically) Greek than Sophocles, is my classmate Donna Vakalis who is hoping to compete for Greece in the Modern Pentathalon.  Her father emigrated from Greece to Canada some time ago.  I believe at this point she's there as an alternate in case someone has to drop out - who knew there were alternates?  Anyway, there ends my lame effort at Olympics name dropping...  =)

Regardless of where I am watching it from, I do love the Olympics.  There are sports that I don't think should be in the Olympics (most team sports - especially ones that have professional international venues already) but what a great experience for the athletes to see another country as well as meet people from all over the world.  And we get to learn new country flags, only to forget them well before the next Winter Olympics.

Coffeeland

I don't imagine many people think about Greece and then think about coffee.  But, in some form or another, it is definitely part of everyday life here.  Taxi drivers will often have a container of some kind of coffee drink (mostly cold) in their cab.  The cafe's are a popular destination year round to socialize with friends - I often see people not even finish their drinks they are so busy talking.  And cafe's will frequently take orders to local shop employees that can't leave. I have seen our post office give them great business!  And when visiting friends, it's one of the first things offered.

The kicker for me is in the variety of ways you can order said coffee.

When you go to a cafe (which serves only beverages and perhaps some sweets or a limited menu) you need to be very clear about what you want when you order a coffee.  Here are the standard options:

Nescafe [option 1]- "zesto", or hot.  Your basic coffee made with frozen grounds and of course sugar and milk options. 

Frappe [option 2]- a cold somewhat frothy drink (made from the same frozen grounds) served with a bit of ice in the options of plain, medium, sweet (I take mine medium, or "metrio") and with or without milk.  

- a Folger's fan?  Tough luck, Nescafe has a chokehold on this country.

Filter - the kind of basic coffee most of you drink at home or the basic choice at Starbucks/Peet's/Seattle's Best/your local coffee shop.

Greek - of Turkish origin, it's quite grainy once you get to the bottom of the cup, really more like mud.  Some people are known to forecast one's future from the dregs left in the cup. Again with the options plain, medium, sweet.

Regardless of which you order, you'll always be served water as well.  At first I found that a bit strange, but I now count on it.  Of course, they have a plethora of other coffee drinks at the cafes, both hot and cold - but the above drinks you can usually expect to be an option when visiting friends.

The picture above is of all our coffee paraphernalia.  The silver cups (briki) in the forefront are for making Greek coffee on the stove.  We have ones for both single and double servings.  You can also buy a special countertop burner especially for brewing your Greek coffee - warming up quite quickly.  The glass with the straw, and the container with the blue lid behind it are for making and serving the Frappe's (that glass is a bit small, but they are usually tall and thin).  I am sure you recognize a coffee maker and the french presses. 

The good news is that you can usually find decaf in most of the above varieties, the bad news is that nowhere do you get free refills!  Forget a leisurely breakfast out, having the server stop by numerous times to refill your cup.  For that matter, I am not sure where you could have breakfast out...  breakfast for Greeks is usually a cup of coffee and a cigarette and for the truly hungry perhaps a tiropita (cheese pie, made with filo dough).  IHOP would have a hard time doing business here.

Things I love about Greece

Obviously, after listing the things I miss (and various other posts about what is different here) I should follow with something positive!

In this crowded city, people's balconies become their yards.  Firstly, I think everyone has a balcony of some size or another.  In a sunny country like this it would be crazy to not add some outdoor living to your home.  The balcony directly across from our is that of a family with 3 children.  They have put up mesh along the railing area to keep the kids and their toys in.  The children ride small bikes and other toys and it's generally used as a play area in good weather.  Next to them is a woman with a swinging chair (she's swinging as I type, while others have a late lunch at the table).  And there's the plants! I've decided that a balcony without plants indicates a home that is either not used or not currently rented out.  Dogs spend some time on the balconies as well.  Many people have asked me if I had a dog when they hear barking on the phone.  Nope, just the noisy neighbors.

I am realizing that a whole blog could be filled on what you can see about people's lives through their balcony.  Perhaps another time.

The driving.  Some people might list this under their "what's insane about Greece" category.  But I like it.  Rules are really suggestions in this country.  I feel a bit more free in what I can do (illegal turns, parking nearly wherever).  It gets scary on the freeway, simply due to the speeds people drive and their impatience for you to get the hell out of their way.  Barring that (we don't spend a lot of time on the freeways) I'm good with it.

Friendly greetings .  The hardest thing for me to get a hang of, the social niceties and things you say upon greeting and leaving friends, but it's great to watch in action.  You can be wished good day, good month (on the first of the month) and even good week.  There's also good trip, the equivalent of "bon appetite", and something that roughly translates to "to your life/living".  Often, you will receive a variety of these wishes from someone.  All I can usually manage is "thank you" or "and to you".  Weak. 

Tavernas.   I love everything about the tavernas except for the chairs.  They are all uncomfortable, requiring the use of at least 2 (one to put a leg up on it's rungs, another to drape one's arm over...).  However, the food, the relaxed social atmosphere, the house wines even.  I love it all.  Meat tavernas or Ouzeries (serving fish foods and ouzo) - both work for me.  Although I usually lean towards meat.

The local market.  Every Friday the market sets up a few blocks from our house.  I head on down with my bag and fill it up with fresher produce than I can find at the supermarket.  It's a lively experience and also offers household wares, linens, curtains, clothes and other random crap.  I usually pass on that section.

Local owned shops.  Typical of most neighborhoods, within a few blocks from here I can find: a pharmacy, a mini market, a bakery, and a butchers.  This is probably more in line with city living than anything, but I love it nonetheless.  Especially when you get to know the owners.

The beach.  Being able to go to the beach, even after Vasilis gets off work, is fantastic.  Yes, there are beaches in other countries, but who else do you know that can daily go and swim at the beaches of Greece!?  Blue and green waters where you can see the little fishies swimming at your feet.  And, feeling particularly chubby?  No worries, showing extra layers of skin is all the rage for all ages.

Traveling through the country  - you can't go wrong.  Every time we go somewhere I am happy to just drive around at look at the scenery.   It's so easy to fall into the relaxed atmosphere of Greece when you head into the villages.

Of course, the thing I love most about Greece is that this is where my husband is and I don't want to be anywhere without him!

Things I miss

When talking to my sister-in-law, Eva, on Skype the other day she asked me what are the things that I miss now that I've been here nearly a year.

My initial response (at least mentally) is that I try not to think about things that I miss.  It makes being away from all that you know that much harder if you dwell on the differences too much.  My actual answer to her was Nestle's chocolate chips.  (My baking specialty is choco chip cookies. ) The chocolate chips you can buy here are tiny, almost as if they were the seeds to grow regular chocolate chips.  You would have to buy 3 bags of the local chips to match just one of Nestle's (or Hershey's, whatever...).  I haven't tried cooking with them yet, but seeing that I just used up my last bag of Nestle's (thanks to a stash sent by Tammy) I will be given the local ones a try next.

Since Eva asked me that question, I have been giving some thought to it.  I feel safe to do so now, being more secure in living here.  There are only a couple material items from the States that I wish I could get here.  Strange items, like Jiffy peanut butter (thanks to a  recent trip to Athens by Eva's friends, we are now stocked up!) and Playtex tampons.  There are some things I try to buy while in the States, but only because those products are so much cheaper there.

The other things I miss are less tangible. 

 - Having a job.    It would nice to be productive again, both literally and financially.  Not to mention the opportunities for meeting and having a connection with new people.  Ok, some days it's nice to be lazy in the morning, my hardest decision being when I should head for the gym/beach/supermarket.

- an easy place to ride my bike.  I was a bit spoiled in the San Ramon Valley with it's Iron Horse Trail.  Straight, nice views, and no car traffic except when crossing a street.  I don't know how Vasilis rides like he does here (averaging 40km per ride).  I have biked on the streets here once, on a quiet Sunday morning.  It was ok, but I prefer to concentrate on the biking and accompanying workout and not simply staying alive!  There's just not a lot of space on the roads for cars sometimes, much less a bike.  There is a local park that is actually great for my mountain bike - I just have to get into shape for the hills and rocks.  Maybe after my knee gets sorted out.

- affordable prices.  I remember spending many an afternoon in the States shopping because I was bored.  None of that here.  Not only are prices higher here, but salaries lower.  I am not quite clear on how it's done, to tell you the truth.  I take the added hit of the low dollar to Euro conversion - so it's only necessities for this gal.  A weekend newspaper is a splurge, at 2.20 Euro (~$3.40) and don't even start me on book prices!

- ability to buy products that don't seem like "travel size".   I'm not talking about Costco sizes here, just what you can find at a typical Safeway.  I have noticed that homes have less storage space (for everyday use items) than what I am used to.  This is the only reason it makes sense to sell smaller.  I'd swear that a tube of toothpaste doesn't last us much more than a couple weeks.  

- having more than CNN as my TV news source.  I can sometimes understand dramas in Greek, but I think the news will be the last things to really sink in.  And CNN is pretty lame.  Thank god for the web...

Missing family and friends is a given - but that's one I still don't let myself think about too much.  What I wouldn't give to have everyone over for a BBQ! 

Had I started this list 9 months ago, I think it would have been considerably longer.  That's good news for me, speaking to how much more comfortable I am here.  Ok, I do still have my moments, but they are far less frequent.  During those moments, Vasilis will jokingly ask if I want to go back to the States and my honest answer is always "no".  Even in the hardest times, I would prefer to experience life here, getting to know the country of my husband and my ancestors.

Directions for Use

One of the interesting, and sometimes challenging, things that I have found is that many consumer items will not have user manuals or directions in English.  There are a variety of other languages listed, but these are obviously products sold only in this part of Europe / Mediterranean.  

The most challenging, still, is the washing machine - pictured here.  For those times when I might want to use more than just the one setting I am sure of (and use all the time) I am thinking of printing this picture out, writing the English equivalents, and hanging above the machine.

Smaller challenges:

The Motorola phone I bought soon after my arrival only came with Greek directions.  I had to go to the Motorola website and choose the U.K. as my location to find English directions for my phone (this particular model isn't sold in the U.S.).

Our stove and washing machine came only in Greek.  Fortunately, Vasilis is the type who likes to read on how things work before using them - rather than just jumping in - so I get to learn at the same time.  Of course, I only end up using/learning the basic functions.  If I want to set the stove on anything but the equivalent for "bake", he's going to need to get involved.

The fridge has English, but after repeated training I have successfully learned how to open and shut the door to it - so the directions are unnecessary. 

Our television came with 2 books, each 3/4 inch thick, with 14 different languages inside.  Fortunately one was English.  Of course, once we got the major features figured out, we were pretty much set.  Off/On, Volume and channel changing - nothing we have to refer back to the manual for!

Our scale wins the prize for total number of languages translated - 18.  Again, you think it would easy "step on, read numbers, swear yet again to eat out less at tavernas, step off".  But this thing is slick, you set it for the various people in your household so not only do you get your weight (with lbs or kilos as options) but also % body fat and % water.  We started off with it measuring in kilos, but for me that was like going to another country and using new currency.  It doesn't really equate with what you know and spending a lot doesn't seem like a big deal.  For me, reading kilos doesn't give me that properly despairing feeling of "I way that much!?" to adequately keep the weight in check.  

Anyway...

A semi-typical combination of languages listed might be like that of my iron:

Danish

Norwegian

Swedish

Finnish

Polish

Russian

Greek

Turkish

Arabic

Italian

Getting medicine, whether it's over the counter or prescription, really leaves me in the dark.  Since we are trying to get pregnant, we try to stay on top of the things that a pregnant woman shouldn't be taking.  At least with these, I have found that the products have the English name (i.e. ibuprofen) and I can look that up on the web.

Other simple household stuff, such as cleaning items, typically comes in Greek, Spanish and Italian.  Initially I had better luck at reading the Spanish or Italian to get an idea of what the product was for or how to use it.  Not that I really know either of those languages, they are just much closer to English so I can get a hint.

I've had the most fun with one particular item though.  During the summertime, what with walking around in sandals all the time, my feet get quite dry and my heels crack pretty easily.  We found out about a Dr. Scholl's product that is supposed to help.  It seems this particular packaging is sold only here and Italy - it's called "Crema per Talloni Screpolati" (roughly, cream for heel cracks).  Firstly, it was an exciting moment for me in that I had equal luck understanding both the Italian and Greek directions (meaning I have learned something while I've been here).  Secondly, the darned stuff actually works!  And thirdly, we have taken to the word "screpolati" just because it's so much fun to say.  I even told Vasilis that if I ever have to enter the witness protection program, my last name will be Screpolati.

Let's not even go into day to day information/instruction outside the home.  There is a sign on the wall outside the pool at my gym indicating that something is forbidden, but I didn't understand the word telling me exactly what that something was.  Referenced my dictionary when I got home and found out it's just diving.  Thank god it wasn't peeing or I'd really be in trouble...

Hospital visits

So far, the thing I have found most daunting is learning the medical system here.  Being from an HR background, I always know nearly exactly what the coverage is and what to expect.  Not to mention, as with most adults of my age, I've had a few visits to the doctor over time.  And then there's the surgeries and hospital time I've been so lucky to experience firsthand.

That's doing me little good here (aside from the pretty strong knowledge of knees and their various issues).

I've been having some problems with one of my knees lately and decided, a few weeks ago, it was time to go see someone about it.  Since I don't have a regular doctor, nor even a name of someone to see, I had to go to the ER in order to be seen.  I felt a bit of a fraud, since it was hardly an emergency, but Vasilis assured me this was the way to get it done.

The ER waiting room at the Naval hospital is quite small, and was also very hot on this particular day.  Sun facing room, AC was being worked on - not fun.  There really isn't anyone to check in with when you get there.  You just wait until someone comes into the waiting room to help who's next.  So you have to figure your position in "line" based on who's already there.  I waited a bit longer than I needed to, as I didn't understand what the guy said when he popped his head out to find out if anyone needed to be examined.  After the 2nd time he did it, I consulted my handy pocket dictionary and realized I needed to speak up.  Thank god I did.  Had I waited much longer they would have needed to see me for heat sickness.

So the ER evaluated me and sent me upstairs to the Orthopedic offices.  They gave me a slip of paper, directions, and sent me on my way.  This is where things get a bit weird.  The Orthopedic section doesn't have a receptionist either.  You have to hang around the entrance door until some medical looking person shows their face, and then you hand your slip to them.  It could become quite a mob at that door, as it was the only way to speak to someone in the know.  I wish I understood what the others were needing.

So I sat myself down to wait for my name to be called (see picture of waiting area above - sorry for bad quality).  Even that can be a bit stressful, as those who's names were called in the exhibited a sense of urgency to get to the door once they were called, as if there were 5.7 seconds to get there or they miss their opportunity.

Once I was called in, things were fairly straight forward.  Got a prescription for two weeks of anti-inflammatory and a second one to protect my stomach from the first one.  (1.55 Euro total - great coverage!)  Also instructions to return if I was still having problems.

Problems continued - so I returned.  This is where it got tricky.  The doctor had told me to come straight to the offices, no appointment necessary.  So I now became one of the mob at the door, waiting to tell someone I was there.  I had the added fun of figuring out how to say in Greek what I needed, once I managed to get someone's attention.  I guess I was successful in my choice of words, as I was seen fairly quickly (within 45 minutes - not bad for no appointment!). Unfortunately, they weren't able to send me for the needed MRI that day and I had to come back later.  Again, no appointment.  Fortunately this time Vasilis had called a friend with a similar knee problem (meniscus) and got the name of the Dr he saw.  Vasilis got that Dr's cell number and I was instructed to go in today (his last day before a 3 week vacation).  I repeated my successful phrase to the same nurse as before and got in quickly again.  Whew.

I had been slightly worked up about this visit, for fear the nurse would think I am just trying to buck the appointment system and tell me to bugger off.  Now that I think about it though, this is pretty much the Greek way - trying to work around things to one's own advantage.  I walked out with an order for an MRI and was able to get a same day appointment at their offices.  So that part is done.  Now just for seeing what the MRI says and what the next steps are.  

The medical system saga will continue, I'm sure.  But at least I am much more comfortable with it now.

Heat

I don't know what I was thinking after the end of last summer (~Sept).  We experienced a short heat wave soon after I got here and had our share of hot days.  I don't remember particularly enjoying those days, but managed to make it through.  For whatever reason, when summer hit this year, I was not clear on what a whole one would look like.

Am clear now.

Since coming here, I have drastically adjusted what I consider hot.  Before moving here I would start groaning if the outside temperature was to hit 80, now I am happy if it's near that inside.  I have set up a cheap little thermometer on the kitchen bar, straddling the kitchen and living room.  Since I put it out there, the coolest the room has been is 75 degrees (that was an exciting morning for me!).  The day usually starts at 78 and hangs out around 82.  Of course, we do have AC. I think I would have moved to Norway by now if we didn't. I have made 83 my threshold for starting it up in the main room.  The nights we use it in our bedroom, we make a quick sacrifice to the AC gods before going to sleep.  Ok, the sacrifice is usually a mosquito, but it's the thought that counts.  

Should we talk external temps now?  The lowest I've seen the forecast in some time is 86  - but the highs usually range from 89 to 97.  On the days where it gets to 100, I head for the beach.  I was a bit dismayed once I noticed this trend and realized there was still a whole summer to get through.  

As a note, all the temps above are converted from the Celsius readings I see.  The forecasts are given for the temp in the shade - so what it is in the sun is not only depressing but can quickly kick your ass on the hotter days.  Just hanging out my laundry this afternoon off the back (sun facing) balcony was almost too much for me.

What they say about a dry heat though is totally right, though.  I would take this over the humid South any day.  Fortunately it's not so dry that you feel the need to spray water up your nose and then coat it with vaseline to keep it from cracking and disintegrating from the inside.

Now, I know there are many people who live in much hotter areas, but I am here and this is my blog.  With all the adjustments one makes moving to a new country - weather is a "safe" topic of complaint.

Silver lining:  

- The laundry dries in no time.  

- Most people are smart enough to get out of the city for some time during the summer, so the place is deserted.   (see previous Ghost Town post).

Summer Ghost Town

Typically traffic is a congested, smoggy, lawless snapshot of chaos here in Athens.  For example, my mother-in-law lives about 6 miles away and it takes a minimum of 20-25 mins to get there by car on a usual afternoon.  We prefer to go with our motorcycle - not only does it take less gas, but gets us there a lot quicker since we can weave through traffic and are always at the front of the line at traffic lights.

Summertime is a different story.  I remember talking with my husband last August, before I got here, as he described the emptiness of the streets.  In the summer, the majority of the city's population goes on holiday, many to their villages, others to the islands and who knows where else.  

Now in my first summer here, I can see what he's talking about.  There's just no one here.  The picture above is one of the main thoroughfares through town which keeps fairly busy even on a Sunday afternoon.  See - no one...  It's still just July, he says it'll be even worse next month.  

I particularly like the effect of this at the supermarket.  They are closed on Sundays, so we tend to go Saturday afternoons and get stocked up.  Of course, we're not the only ones who do this and we are apt to find ourselves bumping carts at every turn.  Yesterday it was heaven, like shopping on a weekday morning.  Lots of space in the aisle, no long lines at the checkout...  I guess this is the silver lining to the daily heat we struggle with (more on that in an upcoming post).

To start off

Some time ago I built website to share things going on in my life (our lives, really) since I moved to Greece in Sept 07 - following my then husband-to-be as he returned to his home country after 2 years in the States.  Being slightly lazy, it seemed easier to update a website than to send multiple emails saying basically the same thing to different people.  

But for some time now I have found a short commentary constantly working itself up in my mind about things in my new country.  I avoided keeping a journal when moving here - I just wanted to live the life and not be busy making comparisons with life in the U.S.  Comparisons can be the death of successful adjustment to a new country and culture - so not only did I not write them down, I wouldn't let myself think them if at all possible.

Now, I have mostly adjusted and am seeing things that I want to comment on.  I am not sure what I mean to accomplish by this.  Possibly to share them with someone who won't feel the need to defend it or explain it should it be less than complimentary about Greece.  That's not to say I won't have positive things to say - nor will everything be directly related to Greece as a country.  Generally, I don't know where this is going, but felt the need to start!