My experience with the police

I was out for a walk this morning, and passed my local police station here in Vrilissia. Having been in it (story to follow) I realized I have never been in a U.S. police station. Wow, the things I am achieving here in Greece. Check that one off the list!

So, the story. It starts out as a day out with some friends - we were all to meet downtown to do a bit of shopping and lunch. These friends are fellow wives of Greeks, who are also unemployed and relatively friendless here in Greece. So shopping, lunch or the beach become our major pastimes.

Anyway, back to the story. I was driving around the neighborhood near the metro station, looking for a place to park, and running late. I turned a corner in my continued search and noticed a spot in my rear view mirror. Those of you who have driven with me might recall that I have decent parking karma. Once again, I thought, ooh! lucky me! I promptly backed into the spot, hopped out of the car, and headed for the metro.

After the day with the girls was over, and I was leaving the metro, Vasilis called me to see where I was. Being on the street where I parked the car, my response was "... should be home in a few minutes." I kept walking down the street, and walking, and starting to worry. I knew I had parked it at that corner - right there! My car had been stolen! Nope. I took a closer look. The spot was the main entry/exit of the parking for an apartment building. I was smack dab in front of it. Yep, there it was - the no parking sign on the gate (much like the one pictured above). Lovely. I had been towed.

Phone call to hubby. "Honey, I think I fucked up." That's exactly what he wants to hear having just settled in for a nap on a hot afternoon. Fortunately, my wonderful supporting husband picked me up and we went to the police station. They were able to tell us who to contact about getting the car back, but we would have to visit still another police station to pay the ticket. Strangely, police from a neighboring town handled the situation, even though our police station was only 1km away.

Next stop, finding and meeting the towing guy to get our car. It was a bit of a ways away, but at least we were able to do it that evening. 96 Euros later (~$150) we had the car. Paying the ticket was left for me to do the next day - which would also get us our license plates back.  Note to U.S. law enforcement: there's a sure fire way to make sure someone pays their tickets!

I went there the next day, but the guy who handles tickets wasn't there, so I would have to come back Monday.  Ok fine - typical Greece there.  I returned on Monday, parking several blocks away since I was driving without plates I figured I shouldn't be parking in front of the station! They told me I first needed to pay the ticket at the post office (you can pay for just about everything there) but I wouldn't get the plates back for 10 days.  I asked them if my husband is penalized for my bad parking too?  Couldn't I get the plates back sooner?  I was shuttled to the Captain (thank god, the conversation could finally switch to English at this point).  I explained what happened and that I wanted my husband to be able to drive the car.  After he apologized for the inconvenience (what, he parked the car in a tow away zone?) he instructed me to pay the ticket (40 euros, but reduced to 20 if you pay within 10 days of the ticketing date) and bring hubby in to fill out a form and show his ID and registration since he is the owner of the car.  Thank goodness they didn't ask to see my drivers license.  I have read that a valid US license is sufficient here but I wasn't ready to definitively find out whether that's true.

So, we got it all sorted the next morning - requiring me to inconvenience hubby once again by being late for work.  Three days of feeling like an asshole finally over. [Note: this feeling was completely self-imposed.  Never a bad comment from Vasilis.  How lucky am I?]

A couple things struck me during all of this - one which not really a surprise but now firsthand knowledge for me.  Laws in Greece are really just suggestions.  The law says that they must keep the plates for 10 days, but there's ways around that.  We were also supposed to pay the ticket, but the officer who processed us said we hadn't really needed to (despite being so instructed by his Captain).  Evidently, we could have gotten away without doing that either.  Hell, I didn't really think there were any rules around parking until this happened!  The biggest thing though, was how darned friendly and helpful they were at the police station.  Any time state employed people are friendly here, I am quite surprised.  And they were so helpful to me, just some idiot who parked in the wrong spot.

Olympics - as viewed from their birthplace

What a great change of pace it has been to watch the Olympics outside of NBC's reach!  As you might guess, given a moment to think about it, the Olympics (or should I be saying "these Olympics?  - how annoying is that..) are a big deal here in Greece.  TV coverage is more than I could have imagined.  There are 4 government stations and a Cyprus channel that carry the games, so there are many options for what you can watch at any given time.  I have been able to watch sports I didn't even know existed in the Olympics and others I don't remember ever watching more than  a highlight of in the States.  I haven't spent a lot of time watching prior to this morning, but here's some of the sports that have been broadcast in full (as opposed to highlights):

Water Polo

Volleyball - beach and regular

Air Rifle

Boxing

Women's soccer

Canoe/Kayak

Judo

Handball

Distance sidewalk spitting (oh right, they have asked the Chinese citizens to hold off on that till everyone goes back home...)

And those are just the ones I find surprising to see so much of (I am already tired of Beach Volleyball and Water Polo).  

Aside from how much is shown, there are some other benefits as well.

Commentators - aside from the opening ceremonies, there is only one commentator per sport, so no lame banter and silly discussion.  Granted I can't understand everything they are saying...

Opening Ceremonies - 4 hours of uninterrupted, LIVE coverage.  Awesome.  Sure, we only have a 5 hour time difference with Beijing, but there were no concerns about Prime Time showing here!

NBC's Olympics theme - I'll admit I missed it at first, but then was reminded of how much one actually does hear it when watching in the US.  I have it bookmarked on my computer, so can call it up when I am feeling the urge.

Competition only - so far I have seen no interviews with athletes, or coverage of their small town life and how hard they worked to get to Beijing.  Not that I am knocking the reality of their hard work by any means, I just remember being very tired of the touchy feely pieces NBC's schlocks together every 2 years.

I have run into one dilemma though, Greece and the US are playing each other in basketball as I type.  Who do I root for?  Or do I just happily watch and come out on top regardless of who wins?   I think the easy answer is change the channel and go back to swimming.  I'm not a big enough b-ball fan to care.  

I'll admit to a small bit of confusion while watching this game though.  There's a black player on the Greece team (who's incidentally the size of a small linebacker).   Of course, I know these things are possible - one must simply prove sufficient connection to the country they are competing for (which varies from country to country).  I'd say this basketball player has got that locked, just look at his name, Sophocles Schortsanitis.  Looking no more (typically) Greek than Sophocles, is my classmate Donna Vakalis who is hoping to compete for Greece in the Modern Pentathalon.  Her father emigrated from Greece to Canada some time ago.  I believe at this point she's there as an alternate in case someone has to drop out - who knew there were alternates?  Anyway, there ends my lame effort at Olympics name dropping...  =)

Regardless of where I am watching it from, I do love the Olympics.  There are sports that I don't think should be in the Olympics (most team sports - especially ones that have professional international venues already) but what a great experience for the athletes to see another country as well as meet people from all over the world.  And we get to learn new country flags, only to forget them well before the next Winter Olympics.

Coffeeland

I don't imagine many people think about Greece and then think about coffee.  But, in some form or another, it is definitely part of everyday life here.  Taxi drivers will often have a container of some kind of coffee drink (mostly cold) in their cab.  The cafe's are a popular destination year round to socialize with friends - I often see people not even finish their drinks they are so busy talking.  And cafe's will frequently take orders to local shop employees that can't leave. I have seen our post office give them great business!  And when visiting friends, it's one of the first things offered.

The kicker for me is in the variety of ways you can order said coffee.

When you go to a cafe (which serves only beverages and perhaps some sweets or a limited menu) you need to be very clear about what you want when you order a coffee.  Here are the standard options:

Nescafe [option 1]- "zesto", or hot.  Your basic coffee made with frozen grounds and of course sugar and milk options. 

Frappe [option 2]- a cold somewhat frothy drink (made from the same frozen grounds) served with a bit of ice in the options of plain, medium, sweet (I take mine medium, or "metrio") and with or without milk.  

- a Folger's fan?  Tough luck, Nescafe has a chokehold on this country.

Filter - the kind of basic coffee most of you drink at home or the basic choice at Starbucks/Peet's/Seattle's Best/your local coffee shop.

Greek - of Turkish origin, it's quite grainy once you get to the bottom of the cup, really more like mud.  Some people are known to forecast one's future from the dregs left in the cup. Again with the options plain, medium, sweet.

Regardless of which you order, you'll always be served water as well.  At first I found that a bit strange, but I now count on it.  Of course, they have a plethora of other coffee drinks at the cafes, both hot and cold - but the above drinks you can usually expect to be an option when visiting friends.

The picture above is of all our coffee paraphernalia.  The silver cups (briki) in the forefront are for making Greek coffee on the stove.  We have ones for both single and double servings.  You can also buy a special countertop burner especially for brewing your Greek coffee - warming up quite quickly.  The glass with the straw, and the container with the blue lid behind it are for making and serving the Frappe's (that glass is a bit small, but they are usually tall and thin).  I am sure you recognize a coffee maker and the french presses. 

The good news is that you can usually find decaf in most of the above varieties, the bad news is that nowhere do you get free refills!  Forget a leisurely breakfast out, having the server stop by numerous times to refill your cup.  For that matter, I am not sure where you could have breakfast out...  breakfast for Greeks is usually a cup of coffee and a cigarette and for the truly hungry perhaps a tiropita (cheese pie, made with filo dough).  IHOP would have a hard time doing business here.

Things I love about Greece

Obviously, after listing the things I miss (and various other posts about what is different here) I should follow with something positive!

In this crowded city, people's balconies become their yards.  Firstly, I think everyone has a balcony of some size or another.  In a sunny country like this it would be crazy to not add some outdoor living to your home.  The balcony directly across from our is that of a family with 3 children.  They have put up mesh along the railing area to keep the kids and their toys in.  The children ride small bikes and other toys and it's generally used as a play area in good weather.  Next to them is a woman with a swinging chair (she's swinging as I type, while others have a late lunch at the table).  And there's the plants! I've decided that a balcony without plants indicates a home that is either not used or not currently rented out.  Dogs spend some time on the balconies as well.  Many people have asked me if I had a dog when they hear barking on the phone.  Nope, just the noisy neighbors.

I am realizing that a whole blog could be filled on what you can see about people's lives through their balcony.  Perhaps another time.

The driving.  Some people might list this under their "what's insane about Greece" category.  But I like it.  Rules are really suggestions in this country.  I feel a bit more free in what I can do (illegal turns, parking nearly wherever).  It gets scary on the freeway, simply due to the speeds people drive and their impatience for you to get the hell out of their way.  Barring that (we don't spend a lot of time on the freeways) I'm good with it.

Friendly greetings .  The hardest thing for me to get a hang of, the social niceties and things you say upon greeting and leaving friends, but it's great to watch in action.  You can be wished good day, good month (on the first of the month) and even good week.  There's also good trip, the equivalent of "bon appetite", and something that roughly translates to "to your life/living".  Often, you will receive a variety of these wishes from someone.  All I can usually manage is "thank you" or "and to you".  Weak. 

Tavernas.   I love everything about the tavernas except for the chairs.  They are all uncomfortable, requiring the use of at least 2 (one to put a leg up on it's rungs, another to drape one's arm over...).  However, the food, the relaxed social atmosphere, the house wines even.  I love it all.  Meat tavernas or Ouzeries (serving fish foods and ouzo) - both work for me.  Although I usually lean towards meat.

The local market.  Every Friday the market sets up a few blocks from our house.  I head on down with my bag and fill it up with fresher produce than I can find at the supermarket.  It's a lively experience and also offers household wares, linens, curtains, clothes and other random crap.  I usually pass on that section.

Local owned shops.  Typical of most neighborhoods, within a few blocks from here I can find: a pharmacy, a mini market, a bakery, and a butchers.  This is probably more in line with city living than anything, but I love it nonetheless.  Especially when you get to know the owners.

The beach.  Being able to go to the beach, even after Vasilis gets off work, is fantastic.  Yes, there are beaches in other countries, but who else do you know that can daily go and swim at the beaches of Greece!?  Blue and green waters where you can see the little fishies swimming at your feet.  And, feeling particularly chubby?  No worries, showing extra layers of skin is all the rage for all ages.

Traveling through the country  - you can't go wrong.  Every time we go somewhere I am happy to just drive around at look at the scenery.   It's so easy to fall into the relaxed atmosphere of Greece when you head into the villages.

Of course, the thing I love most about Greece is that this is where my husband is and I don't want to be anywhere without him!

Things I miss

When talking to my sister-in-law, Eva, on Skype the other day she asked me what are the things that I miss now that I've been here nearly a year.

My initial response (at least mentally) is that I try not to think about things that I miss.  It makes being away from all that you know that much harder if you dwell on the differences too much.  My actual answer to her was Nestle's chocolate chips.  (My baking specialty is choco chip cookies. ) The chocolate chips you can buy here are tiny, almost as if they were the seeds to grow regular chocolate chips.  You would have to buy 3 bags of the local chips to match just one of Nestle's (or Hershey's, whatever...).  I haven't tried cooking with them yet, but seeing that I just used up my last bag of Nestle's (thanks to a stash sent by Tammy) I will be given the local ones a try next.

Since Eva asked me that question, I have been giving some thought to it.  I feel safe to do so now, being more secure in living here.  There are only a couple material items from the States that I wish I could get here.  Strange items, like Jiffy peanut butter (thanks to a  recent trip to Athens by Eva's friends, we are now stocked up!) and Playtex tampons.  There are some things I try to buy while in the States, but only because those products are so much cheaper there.

The other things I miss are less tangible. 

 - Having a job.    It would nice to be productive again, both literally and financially.  Not to mention the opportunities for meeting and having a connection with new people.  Ok, some days it's nice to be lazy in the morning, my hardest decision being when I should head for the gym/beach/supermarket.

- an easy place to ride my bike.  I was a bit spoiled in the San Ramon Valley with it's Iron Horse Trail.  Straight, nice views, and no car traffic except when crossing a street.  I don't know how Vasilis rides like he does here (averaging 40km per ride).  I have biked on the streets here once, on a quiet Sunday morning.  It was ok, but I prefer to concentrate on the biking and accompanying workout and not simply staying alive!  There's just not a lot of space on the roads for cars sometimes, much less a bike.  There is a local park that is actually great for my mountain bike - I just have to get into shape for the hills and rocks.  Maybe after my knee gets sorted out.

- affordable prices.  I remember spending many an afternoon in the States shopping because I was bored.  None of that here.  Not only are prices higher here, but salaries lower.  I am not quite clear on how it's done, to tell you the truth.  I take the added hit of the low dollar to Euro conversion - so it's only necessities for this gal.  A weekend newspaper is a splurge, at 2.20 Euro (~$3.40) and don't even start me on book prices!

- ability to buy products that don't seem like "travel size".   I'm not talking about Costco sizes here, just what you can find at a typical Safeway.  I have noticed that homes have less storage space (for everyday use items) than what I am used to.  This is the only reason it makes sense to sell smaller.  I'd swear that a tube of toothpaste doesn't last us much more than a couple weeks.  

- having more than CNN as my TV news source.  I can sometimes understand dramas in Greek, but I think the news will be the last things to really sink in.  And CNN is pretty lame.  Thank god for the web...

Missing family and friends is a given - but that's one I still don't let myself think about too much.  What I wouldn't give to have everyone over for a BBQ! 

Had I started this list 9 months ago, I think it would have been considerably longer.  That's good news for me, speaking to how much more comfortable I am here.  Ok, I do still have my moments, but they are far less frequent.  During those moments, Vasilis will jokingly ask if I want to go back to the States and my honest answer is always "no".  Even in the hardest times, I would prefer to experience life here, getting to know the country of my husband and my ancestors.